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Syrup With a New York Accent

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Published: April 3, 2012

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Robb and Lydia Turner, who own Crown Maple Farm in Dutchess County, N.Y., bought the 800-acre property in Dover Plains five years ago as a country retreat, then discovered that they also owned a forest of sugar maple trees. They have hired Nathan Wooden, a wine consultant who has worked at Per Se, as a "syrup sommelier" who oversees separation of the syrup into three styles: light amber, which is mild-tasting with a brown butter finish; medium amber, an earthier, spicier syrup hinting of roasted nuts and autumn leaves; and dark amber, which is rich and sweet and suggests chocolate and molasses — excellent for cooking and sauce-making.

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Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Crown Maple Syrup is available in 12-ounce bottles, $19.95 for the light, $17.95 each for the medium and dark, $51.95 for a set of three; or in a sampler kit of three 1.7-ounce bottles for $19.95, from crownmaple.com . It is also sold at Dean & DeLuca stores, Murray's Cheese, Foragers Market in Manhattan and Brooklyn, and Gourmet Guild in Brooklyn.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: April 4, 2012

An earlier version of this article contained incorrect information about common methods for making maple syrup.

Theo www.nytimes.com